By Dr. Ink
SDUN Columnist
The skyline and harbor view from the west-facing rooftop patio of Little Italy’s Glass Door is downright drinkable. Set atop the Porto Vista Hotel on the fourth floor, the happy-hour denizens wish to keep it their secret. But Dr. Ink is a loudmouth when it comes to idyllic sky perches as this, if only because our fair-weather city doesn’t have enough of them.
Arriving with a friend by trolley, our lack of wheels that day gave license to dabble imprudently in Dr. Ink’s all-time favorite cocktail: The ferociously strong caipirinha – a Brazilian brain bender made with loose pours of sugarcane cachaca, muddled lime and a footnote of ice. Ranking at about 80 percent alcohol, although tasting as innocuous as a lime Popsicle, lightweights will feel their punch after drinking just one. Seasoned veterans like us cap off at three.
“I could bathe in this stuff,” I blurted to my companion after slugging down the first drink too fast and gazing out at three massive aircraft carriers hovering in the bay.
“Would you drink your own bath water afterwards?” he asked.
“Yes, indeed, while bobbing for limes.”
During happy hour (3 to 7 p.m. daily), the drink sells for $5 as opposed to $9. Same goes for mojitos and margaritas. Domestic and imported beers range from $3 to $7, and wine lovers can partake in cabernet, Chianti or pinot grigio, which sell for $5 or $6 per glass depending on the label.
Landing a coveted “polywood” hightop on the smoking-friendly patio sometimes requires cutting out of work early and arriving at 3 p.m. The place often fills up fast, especially in balmy temperatures, at sunsets or on Wednesdays, when all wines by the bottle are slashed to half price.
Sliding glass panels separate the patio from the bar and dining room. Inside, visitors are still afforded decent views amid dozens of twinkling Moroccan lamps dangling overhead. Off to one side is a largely concealed kitchen, which cranks out happy hour nibbles such as half-pound Angus burgers ($13), plum-glazed pork belly ($9), herb truffle fries ($6) and a few other appealing choices. But come June, the offerings will change as incoming toque Amy DiBiase (formerly of Roseville in Point Loma) puts the finishing touches on her new menu.
Hummus with pita chips and Nicoise olives dusted in parsley will hopefully survive. It’s good drinking food, generously served and priced at only $6. Heavier foods kill the cocktail buzz. Lighter fare allows you to maintain it, while soaking up just enough blood alcohol to prevent table dances and other unruly behavior from occurring – especially when letting down your hair at a balcony’s edge 150 feet above the asphalt.
Also on the drawing board is a shorter happy hour, which might be cut by an hour next month as to not compete with DiBiase’s dinner service. So summer sunsets could come at a higher price if you choose to linger. Otherwise, come back early the next day and the next. In rooftop digs this lovely, yet perfectly unpretentious, repeat visits are easy to make.
The Glass Door
1835 Columbia St.
Little Italy
564-3755
Happy Hour: 3 to 7 p.m., daily
RATINGS:
Drinks: 4
The caipirinhas are made true to their Brazilian roots, a perfect summer drink that camouflages the feisty punch of sugarcane cachaca liquor with loads of lime. Margaritas and mojitos take on loose pours and the beer list features Chimay in blue or red label.
Food: 4
The happy-hour menu caters to both the famished and not-so-hungry. Half-pound Angus beef burgers, pork belly and steamed mussels with fries mingle with a few light choices such as ceviche and hummus-olive plates. The nibbles, however, will change in mid-June, when new chef Amy DiBiase rolls out a fresh menu.
Value: 3
Don’t come knocking for dive-bar deals. The few extra bucks you pay in comparison for drinks and food are directly attributed to the pretty view of San Diego’s skyline and bay. But $13 for the Angus burger seems bluntly inflated.
Service: 4
Fast, friendly table service extends to the outside patio. Wait staffers appear generally happy with their room-with-a-view work environment.
Duration: 4
The 3 p.m. start time gives you a fast pass for landing a coveted patio table before the nine-to-fivers start rolling in. Also, happy hour is available seven days a week.
